Electronic Ignition Upgrade


Here’s some more food for thought – why convert your distributor to an electronic ignition? Not to take away any credit to the old style of points and condenser, but we live in a tech savvy world. Here’s why the swap could be beneficial –

Firstly, less maintenance, unless of course you like adjusting points and timing every month. With a simple 10 minute modification, you get less wear and no load on the distributor shaft, it runs concentrically, better gas mileage, and a way better start up. Your gas mileage increase alone will pay for itself in no time.

So, if and when you decide to make the upgrade, please, Veeparts cannot stress enough, follow these easy tips-

  • Do NOT wire backwards because it will destroy / fry / burn that module and waste the $100 you just spent. The Hot-Spark module’s red wire connects to positive ( + or 15 on Bosch coil). The black wire connects to negative ( – or 1 on Bosch coil). Remove the condenser and its wire from vehicle. That’s it. Remember, when working on anything electrical, it always a good idea to disconnect the battery.
  • Never leave the key in the “on” position when the engine is not running. Remember, the electronic module is now linked to the starting circuits of the ignition system – meaning that module is hot when the key is on. Leaving the key in the “on” position when the vehicle is not operating could overheat your module.
  • Double check the timing after installation. Set the ignition timing, with a stroboscopic light (preferred), to 28-32° BTDC @ 3,500+ RPM.
  • Test battery voltage to coil – with ignition switch in the “on” position, engine not running, check voltage at coil’s + terminal. The voltmeter should read somewhere around +11 to +13 volts or about the same as battery voltage.

And that’s it. When it all checks out, the last thing Veeparts asks you to do is enjoy that new upgrade!


Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published.